Talking about a soldering pistol of the 1980s: the WELLER Record 100 Watt, how to .. (VLOG)
Please read the description/textbox first.
Textbox for two video’s (uploaded/to be uploaded on 28 April 2023) where I discuss how a 100 Watt soldering pistol (in this case of the 1980’s, but they are still sold nowadays, 2023, because of their good properties) works.
First video about the SOLDIKING (28 April 2023) is here
• Talking about a soldering pistol of t...
Both are 100 Watt soldering pistols, working via a transformer.
Here it is about the 100 watt WELLER soldering pistol.
Important: I am not (!) talking here about 100 Watt soldering irons with a massive copper element, but only about soldering pistols, with (thus) a primary and a secondary AC coil/transformer, that do their jobs. This is a disclaimer.
The soldering pistols that I am talking about (here the WELLER) use, in fact, a heavy AC transformer (110 V/230 V/50 Hertz/60 Hertz).
The primary coil of the 100 Watt heating transformer (in case of 230 Volt at 50 Hertz) has a DC resistance of 70 Ohms. That DC resistance can differ (!) when the primary coil is/was made for 110 Volts AC (be it 50 Hertz or 60 Hertz). Surely a lower DC Ohms value there.
Resistance of the secondary winding is in the order of 0,0XX Ohms. That secondary winding or soldering tip (copper/steel/special steels/special coppers etc.) heats up due to the enormous current sent through it. It can (thus) melt lead-tin solder at its tip.
These soldering pistols are so basic that in fact nothing can go wrong. Only problem (in general): when the heating wire on the secondary of the transformer has slightly/tiny bad electrical contacts, the soldering tip cannot get hot enough to make the lead-tin solder melt.
The cure is simple: clean the contacts of the bolts/holdings of the heating wire, thus the tip that heats up the tin-lead solder.
Absolutely no corrosion may be there, that gives contact resistance. And even the smallest contact resistance (say by some corrosion or when the bolts that hold the heat element, to the tip, are not screwed fierce and tight enough) can make that the heating element (the tip) gets not hot enough to make the tin-lead solder melt.
This video will be used to show two of these soldering pistols made in the 1980’s: the SOLDIKING (the best, have used it for 40 years, it still works) and the WELLER RECORD 8100C.
The Weller heats up somewhat slower, compared to the Soldiking. The Weller does not burn up the lead-tin solder easily, its effective temperature is somewhat lower.
The Soldiking is the easier soldering pistol to be used/use. It is usable for somewhat “heavier” soldering work.
Both are 100 Watt soldering pistols. Both are (of course) not usable to do plumbers work (!). The Soldiking can sometimes do the smaller heavier work, as long as not too much heat is flowing away on the object that needs to be soldered. Still not usable for plumbers work.
For heavy work you need e.g. a gas torch or a 100 Watt soldering iron with a massive copper core. Say soldering a lug to a steel chassis, in an audio amplifier or so. Warming up the place to be soldered is in that case always a good idea.
Please note: there are many 100 Watt Soldering pistols on the www. that, in fact, do not not work (!) in good and easy soldering for electronics. I have one of them….It simply does not “work”.
Biggest problems: although they are sold as “100 Watt soldering pistols”, they don’t heat up quick and in some cases they heat up very slow (!). It is no use to wait for 1 minute till you can make a soldering connection. That must be done within (10-20) seconds!
That is the difference between a good and a bad brand/soldering pistol. Both soldering pistols that I discuss here (WELLER and SOLDIKING) are both good.
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